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Groove to a Latin beat in cosmopolitan Miami

By Mollie Chen, Let's Go Writer

Welcome to Miami, the Latin capital of America.

Here, English is supplanted by colloquial Spanglish, and hip singles sip cafe con leches, not cappuccinos. Everything is a few decibels too loud, a shade too bright and a tad over the top -- just the way locals like it.

The city is in constant motion, and the Latin influence is evident in all aspects of daily life. On the silky sands of South Beach, tanned teenagers lounge on towels while nearby boom boxes blare current Latin pop hits. Bilingual billboards loom over the highways, and local restaurants all offer their own version of traditional Latin dishes.

There is no better way to experience Miami than to delve into its exciting Latin culture. Venture beyond the typical tourist destinations, and you'll be amply rewarded.

Sampling the cuisine

Despite the year-round beach weather, Miami is bursting at the seams with sinfully rich Latin cuisine. The general populace seems to adhere to a doctrine of eat now, eat well, exercise later.

Cuban specialties are easily the most popular and most common type of food, though there are also strong Puerto Rican, Dominican, and Nicaraguan influences.

Although Miami is true big city, with big-city chefs and restaurants, there's no need to go broke looking for a taste of authentic Miami. Most of the best food can be found in the humblest of establishments and for the affordable prices.

For a sampling of what Miami has to offer, check out these popular local favorites:

Sergio's: With four locations throughout Miami, all of which are open late, Sergio's is a convenient pre-beach or post-clubbing stop. The menu has all the basics, as well as few more unique offerings: try the batido de trigo, a milkshake made with a type of sweet wheat cereal. For the ultimate breakfast of champions, pick up an order of tostada (Cuban bread that has been liberally smeared with butter, then flattened in a grill) and sinfully rich Cuban coffee.

La Carreta: This long-standing chain restaurant has seemingly cornered the market on inexpensive, quick, and reliably good Cuban food. Each establishment offers standard menu of Cuban favorites, including arroz con pollo (yellow rice with roast chicken), croquetas (fried sticks of diced ham, chicken or fish), and platanos maduros (fried sweet plantains). Finish it off with tres leches, a Nicaraguan dessert of cake drenched in sweetened condensed milk, evaporated milk and heavy cream.

Versailles Restaurant: Situated on Miami's historic Calle Ocho, this Cuban landmark began as a short-lived French establishment. Inside, the garish decor -- complete with wall-to-wall mirrors and fake foliage -- and noisy, hectic atmosphere make for a fun dining experience. Try the ropa vieja (beef simmering in a hearty, tomato-rich broth), picadillo (a spicy meat stew) or myriad other Cuban specialties. Adjacent to the main building, the restaurant also has a bakery and walk-up window for patrons on the go.

Latin American Cafeteria: Despite the less-than-thrilling atmosphere, this mammoth restaurant serves up arguably the best Cuban sandwiches in Miami. Cuban roast pork, ham, Swiss cheese, and dill pickles are all layered in between fresh Cuban bread and then grilled on a plancha (sandwich press). Medianoches, or midnight sandwiches, are a smaller, sweeter version of this addictive staple.

Casa Larios: Rumor has it that Miami power couple Gloria and Emilio Estefan loved this restaurant so much that they teamed up with the owners to open a sister establishment on South Beach. Larios on the Beach and Casa Larios are both known for their bistec de pallomilla (pallomilla steak) -- Jennifer Lopez has even been known to frequent the South Beach location for her Cuban fix.

Porcao: A traditional Brazilian churrascaria, Porcao is a carnivore's paradise. For a flat rate of $31.50, enjoy the extensive salad bar and as much savory types of meat that you can handle. Don't miss out on the caipirinhas, powerful but refreshing rum cocktails.

On the go

Forget bagels and croissants -- Miami bakeries transcend standard carb-rich snacks. Choose from pastelitos (flaky pastries with fillings such as guava paste and cream cheese, coconut, and meat), empanadas (meaty turnovers filled with beef, ham or cheese), or the ubiquitous Cuban bread.

Instead of filling your cooler with Coke and Sprite, try one of the many Latin sodas. Some options include: Cawy lemon-lime soda; Materva, a fizzy mate drink; and Iron beer, a regionalized version of Dr. Pepper or root beer. For an alternative to domestic beers, Hatuey and Tropical are regional favorites available throughout the city.

Destinations

Calle Ocho, or 8th Street, is a long stretch of road that encompasses every facet of Miami's Latin culture.

Storefronts are emblazoned with huge neon signs that advertise everything from pawn shops to bakeries to banquet halls. Friday night, "Viernes Social" takes over, and the street's small park becomes a neighborhood meeting place.

Older men haggle over dominoes in Spanish, while women listen to music and watch their grandchildren scamper around. It's a scene reminiscent of Old Cuba, a sepia-toned relic of the past.

Latin culture dominates Miami's frenzied nightlife, which revolves around South Beach. Tropigala, in the Fontainebleau Hotel, is a return to the supper clubs of the 1950s, featuring full musical revues each night. Famous Cuban salsa performer Willy Chirino often performs here, along with other big-name acts.

Gloria Estefan's cafe, Bongo's, is also designed with the aim to evoke nostalgic feelings of Old Cuba. At night, the restaurant turns into a sizzling dance club that attracts some of the city's most attractive singles. Along Ocean Drive, there are a number of Brazilian clubs to choose from, all packed with beautiful people and blaring the most current Latin hits.

Carnaval Miami

Held every year in early March, Carnaval Miami is a two-week-long charity event organized by the Kiwanis Club of Little Havana that is said to draw more than 1 million people.

The Noche de Carnaval is one of the big early events. This televised concert features world-class Latin artists and culminates in the crowning of the King and Queen of Carnaval Miami. The festival culminates in a single day, however, when Calle Ocho is shut down for a huge street celebration.

On that day, all of Miami's myriad Latin populations come together for a massive multicultural extravaganza. At Carnaval Miami, everyone becomes a little kid. It's sensory overload -- you'll strain your neck and your stomach trying to see and eat everything.

Musical performances take place on over 30 stages throughout a 23-block area, while vendors sell every kind of Latin food imaginable. On this day, the best Miami has to offer can all be found in one place.

Let's Go writer Mollie Chen grew up in Miami, but now lives in Cambridge. She has yet to find a decent cup of cafe con leche in the Boston area.

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